BBC Three – Who Made Me Fat? – The Times Review

Far better – indeed excellent, punchy, funny and sharp – was the latest Mischief documentary, Who Made Me Fat?

Using wilful absurdity, Rebecca Wilcox revealed the correspondingly absurd smoke and mirrors of the food industry and government as both tried to pass the buck on the causes of obesity. She took cakes to the Sugar Bureau (the lobbying group for sugar producers), she tried, but failed, to interview Andy Burnham, the Health Secretary, who refused to be interviewed. A Morrisons’ spokesman rebutted every question about the company’s stocking of masses of cut-price junk food with the proclamation that the supermarket was about “fresh food at affordable prices”.

Wilcox showed how food producers finangle the recommended amount of refined sugar we eat to suit their aims, and questioned why Coca-Cola, McDonald’s and Cadbury’s were being so embraced as sponsors of the Olympics. She wondered why Burger King franchises are in the lobbies of our hospitals, particularly Addenbrooke’s, leaders in heart surgery.

For her trouble she was patted on the head and told it was people’s individual responsibility not to become obese, and that all foods in moderation are good. Well yes, but the food industry is an insistent, ruthless hydra and Wilcox brilliantly and wittily exposed its attempts to control what, and the way, we eat.

tim.teeman@thetimes.co.uk